Clients often ask us about technical denim terms.
One recurring question is: what do we call the ends of jeans — the bottom part that touches shoes or ankles?
At Jeanzio, we know that terminology matters in sourcing and communication.
The ends of jeans are called hems. A hem is the folded and stitched edge at the bottom of jeans, designed to prevent fraying and provide a clean finish. Depending on style, hems can be single-folded, double-folded, raw, or distressed.
Understanding hem types helps brands choose the right construction for durability and design.
Why are hems important in jeans?
They’re small but critical.
Hems finish jeans cleanly, secure fabric from unraveling, and influence overall fit and style.
Hem Functions
- Prevent fraying at fabric ends.
- Define length and drape.
- Contribute to durability.
- Add design personality.
Our Insight
At Jeanzio, we remind clients that a poorly constructed hem can ruin an otherwise premium jean.
What types of hems are used in jeans?
Not all hems are alike.
Common hem types include double-fold hems, single-fold hems, raw hems, and distressed hems.
Hem Types
| Hem Type | Characteristics | Market Use |
|---|---|---|
| Double-Fold Hem | Two folds, very durable | Standard in premium jeans |
| Single-Fold Hem | One fold, less durable | Fast fashion |
| Raw Hem | Cut edge, no fold | Trend-driven collections |
| Distressed Hem | Frayed, styled imperfection | Youth and festival wear |
Our Insight
We advise clients to align hem construction with price point and target consumer.
Why are chain-stitched hems iconic?
They fade with character.
Chain stitching, often used in premium denim, creates a distinctive “roping effect” as hems age and fade uniquely.
Chain-Stitch Traits
- Flexible under tension.
- Produces vintage fade effect.
- Authentic to heritage denim.
Our Insight
We use chain-stitch hemming machines for clients targeting premium and selvedge markets.
What are raw hems and why are they trendy?
Unfinished is fashionable.
Raw hems are simply cut denim edges left unstitched, popular for distressed or DIY-inspired jeans.
Raw Hem Appeal
- Edgy, modern aesthetic.
- Easy to adjust length.
- Less durable, prone to fraying.
Our Insight
We help clients manage raw hem finishing with controlled fray to maintain style without excessive damage.
How do hems influence jeans length and fit?
Small details, big impact.
The hem type and finish affect how jeans fall on shoes, ankles, or boots, shaping the overall silhouette.
Fit Influence
- Wide hems suit wide-leg jeans.
- Narrow hems fit skinny styles.
- Cropped hems highlight footwear.
Our Insight
We test hems during fit sampling to ensure proportions align with client expectations.
Why do some jeans use cuffed hems?
Style and function meet.
Cuffed hems are folded outward rather than stitched permanently, offering adjustable length and a casual look.
Cuff Characteristics
- Flexible styling.
- Highlights selvedge edges.
- Works best on straight and wide-leg jeans.
Our Insight
We encourage cuffing options for selvedge collections, where showing edge detail adds value.
How do finishing methods affect hems?
Wash defines the look.
Different washes and treatments can change hem appearance, from clean to frayed to heavily distressed.
Hem Finishing Examples
- Clean rinse = sharp, minimal hem.
- Stone wash = softer, vintage look.
- Laser distress = controlled fray.
- Bleach wash = high-contrast edge.
Our Insight
We combine wash development and hemming to ensure consistency across bulk runs.
How does hem construction impact sustainability?
Eco focus includes small parts.
Durable hems extend garment life, reducing waste, while eco threads and waterless washes lower impact.
Sustainable Choices
- Organic cotton or recycled polyester threads.
- Minimal washing for energy savings.
- Reinforced hems to extend lifespan.
Our Insight
We integrate sustainable trims and stitching to ensure eco values even in hems.
What should clients consider when specifying hems?
Details at the ends can define quality perception.
Client Checklist
- Decide between double-fold, raw, or distressed hems.
- Confirm stitch type (chain stitch vs lock stitch).
- Match hem style to target market.
- Ensure wash consistency with hem design.
- Balance durability with fashion appeal.
At Jeanzio
We help clients plan hems during early sampling stages, avoiding problems in bulk production.
Conclusion
The ends of jeans are called hems.
From durable double-fold chain-stitched hems to raw distressed cuts, hems play both functional and aesthetic roles in denim.
They influence fit, style, and durability, and they reflect brand identity.
At Jeanzio, we guide clients in selecting the right hem type so their jeans balance quality, fashion, and consumer appeal.
